Little Chef Set Tutorial - Apron Plus Quilted Pot Holder and Place Mat

While I'm still dealing with a little lingering morning sickness (at 31 weeks! ugh!), thankfully I've been able to get a lot of sewing done. I'm hoping to share some of the knit shirts I've been making for Isabelle in the next week or so, but today is all about this sweet little apron set. I made it as a gift for my niece for her fifth birthday, but I think you could easily tweak the more feminine parts and make this perfectly suitable for a little boy as well.

I searched Pinterest for ideas and found a handful of apron styles and designs I liked, so I combined a bunch of them together. Then I thought it would be fun to make a matching play pot holder and a cute place mat- I don't have much experience quilting by machine and it was fun fun fun! The small size kept it really manageable and super quick to make. Instant gratification, yes, please!

Let's start with the apron.
I used a nice cotton for the front, and a poly-cotton blend for the back (for no other reason than I liked the color combination). You will want a cotton that holds it shape, maybe has a little weight/heft to it. You could certainly use a duck cloth or other stiffer fabric as well.

Sorry in advance for the wonky photos. It was cloudy one moment and then super sunny the next- I couldn't keep up. And this is a rather wordy tutorial. Sorry! I promise it isn't complicated, and hopefully the pictures will help.

Here are the basic pieces you'll use to make the apron with adjustable neck straps, two long side straps, and a solid pocket with contrasting band at the top. Of course you could put any type of pocket on, or none at all. Totally up to you.

approximately 1/2 yard cotton for front and another for backing
2 - 45" strips, cut 5 or 6 inches high
2 - 16" strips, cut 4 or 5 inches high
1 remnant for pocket, cut to size depending on apron width
1 - 4" strip, cut to roughly same size as pocket top
Velcro strip
Rick Rack

First cut out your apron front. This is basically the same principle used as in my nightgown tutorial. I wanted a sweetheart neckline and a scalloped hem, but first I cut a tapered "triangle" piece on the fold, with the top (neckline) about 12-14 inches wide. You can cut the sides here for the upper part, or do that in the next step, then create the scallops and the neckline you want.

Cut a second apron piece using the front as a pattern guide. If you didn't already cut the neckline/upper sides, do that now. Sew the front and back right sides together (RST) with a generous seam allowance, but remember to leave openings at the top for the two neck straps and at the sides for the two side straps- make one side opening slightly larger in order to turn apron right side out. Press apron; press edges of opening under.

Now you're ready to make the straps. For the side ties, I simply folded the strips RST and stitched a narrow seam along the edge; turn right side out, press. You can edge stitch or not- I did, just to make the ties a bit more sturdy. I inserted each one a few inches into the side openings and pinned in place. I could have stitched them in as I sewed the apron front and back together, but this just seemed much easier. Less fuss. That's nice. =)

For the neck straps, I did the same thing as with the contrast band, tucking one end of each in as I pressed it together. I thought the zig zag looked cute here, so I did that again, up and down each edge. Then I cut narrow pieces of Velcro and zig-zagged those on. Insert the straps into the openings and pin in place. Now you're ready to edge stitch the entire apron. This is why I suggested a wider seam allowance- it "catches" better so less chance of frayed edges where you're sewing the openings closed.

**My niece is very petite, and I wanted to be sure that she had lots of options for how tight or loose she wanted the straps around her neck; I would have probably only sewed in one long tab of Velcro on each strap for my own daughter.

For the pocket, fold fabric in half RST (top to bottom) and cut according to how wide and deep you want it. Iron; stitch sides. For the contrasting band, iron each edge, right side, toward wrong side center; iron folds together to form strip. Turn ends against crease and stitch a diagonal line- this is going to "wrap" around the top of the tapered pocket. I sewed one end and then placed it on the pocket to see exactly how long to make it, putting a pin in to mark the spot.

Turn pocket right sides out and press; press band.

It doesn't line up perfectly here, and that's okay. I sandwiched the band and the upper pocket edge and used a simple zig zag stitch for a little interest. I prefer making pockets this way, even if it's a smaller one and especially if it's a rounded or curved one, because pressing down teeny edges does not make me a very happy person. So I always sew them RST first, turn them out, and then sew them in place.

Now pin it in place on apron front and stitch along the sides and bottom; stitch a center seam up the middle. Hopefully yours will be straighter than mine because I had to stitch a second one and take out the first. Oops.

Another view of the pocket. I think they're sturdier when constructed this way, and they look nice and neat from all sides, even the inside.

Next, sew on your rick rack with a narrow zig zag or straight stitch (I zig-zagged again). I used medium rick rack for the neckline and jumbo for the hem. There, apron's all done!

You could stop right here and have a darling little apron to give to a little girl in your life. Or you can make the complete set.

For boys: Obviously omit the sweetheart neckline and scalloped hem, including the rick rack. And most likely the pink and purple, ha. I would either keep both edges straight across, or I might try a jagged edge, think shark teeth, for the hem, with or without contrasting binding. There are tons of fun prints available for boys, and lots of great colors too. I'd try blues and reds.

Here's a glimpse of the apron back-

Now onto the place mat and pot holder.

I cut a square 7 inches by 7 inches for the backing for the pot holder. Next I cut and sewed the strips together. I didn't measure, but the cupcake print is slightly wider. It's pretty easy to figure out when you're doing it; trim pieced square to about 1/4 inch bigger than the backing square.

Next, pin the pieced square to a small piece of batting- or use a ratty old washcloth like I did; set your stitch length a little longer and start machine quilting. Have fun with it! It was very gratifying sewing all those lines. When you've quilted enough, pin front to back, with right sides out, so batting is sandwiched in between. 

The pot holder doesn't need to have a tab, but if you add it, be smarter than me and stitch it to the back, lining up raw edges- the tab will lay flat against the purple fabric when you sew the binding onto it.

Now cut some strips of coordinating fabric, approximately 2 to 3 inches wide. Don't worry about a bias because there are no curves to maneuver. Here is a great tutorial on binding if you aren't familiar with it...whoops, I can't find it now- there are lots out there, promise! I thought a wide zig zag would catch all the edges better, so again, that's what I used.

The place mat gets put together in much the same way. I cut a rectangle about 14 inches wide by 10 inches tall of the backing fabric and then some wider strips in the other fabrics. Honestly, you can make it whatever size you'd like. Since I didn't want to bind the place mat, I included the green strips into the design. After machine quilting the top and batting together, I pinned it to the backing RST (batting will be on outside in this step) and trimmed away any excess. Stitch together, again with a wider seam allowance, leaving a large enough opening on one side in order to pull it all right sides out.

Edge stitch all the way around, catching the turned under edges from the opening.

I thought the backing might shift a bit without some additional stitching, so I incorporated the same zig zag stitch up and down the edges of the green strips- you can see it (and the back of the pot holder) in the picture below.

If you wanted to bind the place mat like the pot holder, that would look adorable; likewise, if you wanted to sew the pot holder RST and omit the binding, go for it! Either option has a great finished look.

Now wrap this cute set up and give it to a special little girl...who maybe will help you make dinner tonight!  ;)

Remember, this could easily be adapted to suit a boy's liking. Two of my boys in particular love to putter around the kitchen and have each had aprons of their own when they were younger. I think they'd appreciate a half apron more now...I'll share if I get to that sometime soon!

**PLEASE NOTE: this pot holder is for pretend play only. It will not withstand heat. You would need to line it with a heat resistant batting material if you plan to use it with hot items.


Here is a link to a ruffled half apron I made a little while ago.

ps: I've changed things up on instagram - find me at roseandruffle to see shop items, special sales alerts, and fun tutorials like this one!

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DIY by Design 

Tutorial: Girls Maxi Skirt with Walking Slits

Everyone loves a reliable, easy, and fast sewing project. That, my friends, would be the maxi skirt.

 
Maxi skirts are one of the best projects because they're a cinch to whip up and perfect for beginners. You can cut them straight down, literally two rectangles, or in a slight triangular shape for some flare at the hem. This skirt is cut with a faint flare and features modest walking slits, which requires the smallest bit of additional work, but I think it's worth it.

First, decide how long you'd like the walking slit to be. I prefer a very modest slit, one that makes the skirt comfortable to move in (climbing stairs, getting up into our van, etc.) but doesn't scream, "Hey hey hey! Look at my long legs!"  Once you've settled on that, simply backstitch when you've reached the right spot and leave the rest of the edges open. You can see how I angled the cut with the pinking shears above the open sides.

Next, you're going to press a narrow edge (toward the wrong side, just like a normal hem) on the open seam, and then fold it over itself and press again. Stitch the pressed edges. If stitching this in one continuous line seems daunting, just stitch up one side and backstitch above the slit, and then repeat on the other side. You can stitch on an angle to form a point if you like as well, but it isn't necessary.

Lastly, sew up your waistband like you would any other maxi skirt with an elastic waist. Then press whatever size hem you want in place and stitch. Voila! 

The back looks longer in the photo, but it isn't really. Must be all that hip-jutting and strutting and such.  =)

Note: If you prefer to fold the fabric in half from top to bottom, so that you have only one side seam to stitch and the other side is the fabric fold, that works too- just make one walking slit in the sewn side. Done and done. And even faster!

Easy Ruffled Apron Tutorial

Hello! This is a tutorial for a little girl's ruffled apron, perfect for a beginner wanting to try out some new skills and actually finish a project in an hour or so. The sky is the limit in terms of fabric combinations. These aprons were for a birthday party, so cupcakes and flowers worked beautifully. You could choose anything!

Oh, and sorry in advance for the pics - the sun kept going from blinding to hiding behind a cloud, and I couldn't keep up!

Here's a little tutorial for making the apron:

Basically, it's just squares and rectangles...super easy and fast to make! These are the measurements for a size 6 (I deduced by about 2 inches for a size 5) but you could use whatever sizes you want. I think fat quarters would work very well for smaller sizes.

Ruffle One: 24" x 6"
Ruffle Two: 24" x 9"
Body of Apron: 17" x 15"
Tie: 3 1/2" x 45"
   **I simply cut the strip along the edge of the 45" fabric, but it was barely long enough for this size- next time I'll cut longer strips**

Next turn up the edges on the sides and bottom to iron the hem
Stitch the sides first, opening out one fold on the bottom - this makes for a clean, neat finish

Now stitch along the bottom

Finish the sides and bottom of all three pieces

Next you'll gather the ruffles

If you do things properly, you'll baste the ruffles together and then neatly pull the thread to even everything out...I simply pinned the edges to the pink apron body along the top, and eyeballed it as I worked the layers through my machine.

At this point, the ruffle layers should be stitched to the top of the apron body, laid out like this, not Right Sides Together.

I thought about stitching right sides together to form a tube, but...I didn't want to have to pull them all back through! Also, I wanted them to have a little extra something to make them more stable.

Iron both sides so the edges meet in the middle

Open out ends and put right sides together - you'll stitch these ends like so

Trim the edge and turn out  (you may have to poke the inner corner a bit)

On the home stretch now...
Center the tie over the apron and ruffles, and create an apron-tie sandwich
Pin carefully for this part so it doesn't get shifty on you.

You'll stitch through all the layers
I placed the tie so it was about halfway down onto the apron - it might be easier to place the fold line directly over the top of the apron if you're worried about things moving around too much
Take your time - it's pretty bulky

And that's it! Tie it on an adorable chef and get lunch made for you!  =)

 

We I whipped up a few of these as party favors for Isabelle's birthday party guests (and then promptly forgot to post the tutorial...oops!). The girls decorated their own little pizzas, and while those were baking, they added frosting and sprinkles to some giant sugar cookies we'd made ahead of time.

Thanks for reading! I hope you're having a fantastic day today!

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Tip Junkie

Tips for Sewing a Halter Dress (And Making it Modest)

Whew! Winter lasted ForEVER and now we're melting in 90 degree humid heat! Little Miss was super excited about this halter dress because it lets her back be "free" and "cool."  =)

Isn't this just the prettiest fabric!?! I found it at JoAnn's last year. Such a nice, smooth cotton with luscious color.

Here are the pieces all laid out. When I cut the bodice front pieces, I added an inch or so to each center edge to get a more modest top, and then gradually tapered the amended cut edge to the original pattern piece so the straps would not be wider than what was initially called for.

I wish I'd cut the strap pieces a bit longer, though. Next time.

It's fairly easy to adjust the sizing at this point. When I tried the pieces on Isabelle, I marked (okay, I didn't! I'm an eye-baller through and through) I made a mental note of where I should have the front pieces lap and tacked them together. NOTE: I wanted to include a small ruffle on the back piece, so I cut the band a little taller. If you make adjustments to any side pieces, don't forget to make those same adjustments to the each side, where they will "meet up." Even if things aren't perfectly aligned, you can trim the raw edges even with each other...no problem!

Next, we tried the elastic back band, which was way too loose. I had to take out one end of stitching and pull the elastic more to make it tighter. Don't be worried if the elastic band seems smaller than the bodice front- I wanted the back a little more snug, just so it fits better, especially when she's jumping around and such.

Lastly, sew your front and back side pieces together. Top-stitch along a narrow edge for a nice, clean finish on the outside, as well as keeping down the bulk on the inside.

The last step is to attach the skirt. I had to pull a little here and there to get the width I needed. One time I had to go back and sew an extra side seam into the skirt because it was just too big and I couldn't make it fit snugly to the bodice pieces. It's all good.

For tips on sewing a smooth hem on a rounded skirt without using bias or hem tape, read this tutorial.

This halter dress is going to get tons of wear this summer! It's perfect to toss on over a swimsuit, too, so basically, she won't be taking it off for the next three months.

Happy Sewing! Email me if you've got any questions! 3sonsplus1{at}gmail{dot}com

You can see my latest sewing projects on instagram at roseandruffle & on Pinterest HERE.  =)

Friday Favorites: A Tutorial on French Seams

Good morning! It's a brisk one today, but sunny. I'm feeling good- I've already lifted some weights, walked a little, puttered around my yard enjoying the emerging blooms, then went for a quick jog, and came in to empty the dishwasher, all before 6:15 am. Go me! And I suppose that breeze did keep away pesky bugs, so I'll take it.  =)

I promised close-ups of Isabelle's Easter dress AND a some helpful hints for making a halter dress, but... In my defense, baseball season keeps us super busy. And we do have to eat. So, not much time for portrait sessions and the like.

In the meantime, here is an oldie but goodie. If you've never tried French seams, you should! They may require an additional step or two, but they are not complicated and are so worth the effort. I'm not a huge fan of serger machines, so this gives me a beautifully finished edge every single time. Try it!

 (originally posted April 2013)

Good Saturday morning! I am happy to report that it is no longer sleeting and SNOWING, unlike yesterday, though we do have a white yard again. Sigh. Oh well, today is already looking up...my hard-working hubs is installing our new dining room/entry floor as I type, children are outside playing since it isn't freezing cold, the sick boy is feeling better, and I'm finishing up some orders (thank you thank you thank you!!!). Then I remembered that I had wanted to do a tutorial on French seams, but I just kept forgetting. Until now. This may be your lucky day!  ;o)

When I was younger I first read about French seams...and was completely intimidated! There was so much measuring and trimming and ironing and snipping and more ironing-- I think I gave up before I ever got started! Then serging became all the rage to make seams look more professional, but truth be told, I'm not the biggest fan. I see the appeal, but I prefer less "factory" type methods of sewing for most projects.

But the raw-edged seams on my handmade items looked a little too homemade, if you know what I mean. So I took another look at sewing French seams, and this time, discovered a simpler, faster way.

It is easy, I promise! The only thing that you really have to consider are the variations in seam allowances, and how they may alter the sizing of whatever you're making. Honestly, I have never had an issue with this. Some patterns call for 1/4 inch seam allowance, while others call for 5/8 inch. If working with 1/4 inch allowances, do all the steps to keep those seams narrow and things should work out just fine. Okay, let's get started!

With WRONG sides together, stitch 1/4 inch (or 1/8 inch by adjusting your needle position to the right) from the edge--

At this point, you can trim the raw edges with a quick cut if you want to sew a narrower seam. You'll be enclosing the seam with the next stitch line, so if that seam is too wide, it will show...which you do not want.

After you've done this a few times, you will get a feel for how narrow things should be, and it gets even easier!

Open out the fabric with the new seam on top and iron it to one side, gently pulling one side taut--

The wrong side will look like this--
(If you want to, go ahead and iron this flat too, but it isn't necessary.)

Next, fold along the seam, RIGHT sides together, making sure the stitch line is nice and straight.
Press--

Now, with the pressed fabric folded {still RIGHT sides together} stitch 1/4 inch, give or take, along the edge. I wanted a nice, wide seam, so mine is slightly larger than 1/4 inch--

Position the seam to the desired side and press the RIGHT side.

On the outside things look just as they normally would, but now on the inside, you've got beautifully encased seams--

 Curves are no problem for sewing with French seams! This is a seam with a sleeve and underarm--

Sorry for the terrible lighting (it was dark & gloomy yesterday!), but here is a pic of the finished product- so pretty!

When working with silky or slippery fabrics, and fabrics that fray easily, French seams can be a lifesaver! There are, however, some occasions when sewing with French seams doesn't work well at all. Bulkier, heavier fabrics are a nightmare because the seams get super thick and difficult to work with- I would zig-zag the edges, or yes, even use the serger!

I hope this tutorial was helpful for you to go ahead and try something new! Feel free to email me at 3sonsplus1@gmail dot com with any questions. Have a great weekend!

ps- I just noticed that my pink fabrics are different in the photos, so I hope that isn't confusing-- I had some nightgown orders to finish up, so the tutorial got a little spiced and diced, ha! But I guess that's a really good problem to have!  =)