Tuesday, May 26, 2015

Tips for Sewing a Halter Dress (And Making it Modest)

Whew! Winter lasted ForEVER and now we're melting in 90 degree humid heat! Little Miss was super excited about this halter dress because it lets her back be "free" and "cool."  =)

Isn't this just the prettiest fabric!?! I found it at JoAnn's last year. Such a nice, smooth cotton with luscious color.











Here are the pieces all laid out. When I cut the bodice front pieces, I added an inch or so to each center edge to get a more modest top, and then gradually tapered the amended cut edge to the original pattern piece so the straps would not be wider than what was initially called for.

I wish I'd cut the strap pieces a bit longer, though. Next time.


It's fairly easy to adjust the sizing at this point. When I tried the pieces on Isabelle, I marked (okay, I didn't! I'm an eye-baller through and through) I made a mental note of where I should have the front pieces lap and tacked them together. NOTE: I wanted to include a small ruffle on the back piece, so I cut the band a little taller. If you make adjustments to any side pieces, don't forget to make those same adjustments to the each side, where they will "meet up." Even if things aren't perfectly aligned, you can trim the raw edges even with each other...no problem!

Next, we tried the elastic back band, which was way too loose. I had to take out one end of stitching and pull the elastic more to make it tighter. Don't be worried if the elastic band seems smaller than the bodice front- I wanted the back a little more snug, just so it fits better, especially when she's jumping around and such.


Lastly, sew your front and back side pieces together. Top-stitch along a narrow edge for a nice, clean finish on the outside, as well as keeping down the bulk on the inside.


The last step is to attach the skirt. I had to pull a little here and there to get the width I needed. One time I had to go back and sew an extra side seam into the skirt because it was just too big and I couldn't make it fit snugly to the bodice pieces. It's all good.

For tips on sewing a smooth hem on a rounded skirt without using bias or hem tape, read this tutorial.

This halter dress is going to get tons of wear this summer! It's perfect to toss on over a swimsuit, too, so basically, she won't be taking it off for the next three months.

Happy Sewing! Email me if you've got any questions! 3sonsplus1{at}gmail{dot}com

You can see my latest sewing projects on instagram at roseandruffle & on Pinterest HERE.  =)

Tuesday, May 19, 2015

Isabelle's White Easter Dress with Ruffles, Appliques, and Fabric Roses

So. I'm finally showcasing Isabelle's Easter dress. At least it's still 2015, right?

I was waffling between gathers and pleats, pastels and polka dots...and I was having the hardest time making a decision! Sometimes I get like this, and I simply cannot choose anything! I'd already cut out two different dress patterns for her, but then I got the idea of a white dress in my head and couldn't stop thinking about it. It feels sort of little girl to me, and I'm clinging to that. Goodness, my knuckles are bone white my grip is so tight! And I know the days of her wanting to twirl around in long dresses is coming to an end, but they haven't yet and went for it.  =)

The dress is a combination of two patterns, plus my just winging it. As usual. I opted for pleats, added special little touches for details, cut the back slightly lower, and chose buttons instead of a zipper. The bodice is fully lined but I left the skirt unlined, knowing she'd wear a slip skirt I made her last year. The pink ribbon adds just the right amount of interest and color, as do the fabric roses on the lower skirt front- they were lots of fun! I'm thinking of embellishing a plain t-shirt or tank top with fabric roses for her for summer.

I was thinking of attaching the green ruffle to an under-skirt so they would both hang loosely, but I really didn't want the skirt to get bulky. Instead, I sewed the green ruffle to the lilac band, and then attached them both to the skirt hem. It worked well, which was a relief. Sometimes my ideas don't translate quite so well from brain to paper to fabric, ha ha.

Lastly, the bodice looked a little too plain before I had the idea to snip the rosette lace (from around the neckline) into individual rosettes to then sew on. It was just what I was hoping for! So pretty! I  was afraid it was going to make forever and a day, but I easily finished tacking them on in the span of a movie we watched with the kiddos. (Though at times, the hot tears and massive laughter did not make for the best sewing companions...it was Big Hero 6...such a wonderful albeit emotional little movie!)

Here are the pictures:












I regret that the photos aren't the best- we'd just gotten home from church and the sun was out full force; plus we were hurrying to get to the beach for the afternoon so I was snapping snapping snapping without adjusting adjusting adjusting {settings}. I'm going to have to get some better pictures because my girl looks absolutely beautiful in this dress!



Friday, May 15, 2015

Friday Favorites: A Tutorial on French Seams

Good morning! It's a brisk one today, but sunny. I'm feeling good- I've already lifted some weights, walked a little, puttered around my yard enjoying the emerging blooms, then went for a quick jog, and came in to empty the dishwasher, all before 6:15 am. Go me! And I suppose that breeze did keep away pesky bugs, so I'll take it.  =)

I promised close-ups of Isabelle's Easter dress AND a some helpful hints for making a halter dress, but... In my defense, baseball season keeps us super busy. And we do have to eat. So, not much time for portrait sessions and the like.

In the meantime, here is an oldie but goodie. If you've never tried French seams, you should! They may require an additional step or two, but they are not complicated and are so worth the effort. I'm not a huge fan of serger machines, so this gives me a beautifully finished edge every single time. Try it!


 (originally posted April 2013)

Good Saturday morning! I am happy to report that it is no longer sleeting and SNOWING, unlike yesterday, though we do have a white yard again. Sigh. Oh well, today is already looking up...my hard-working hubs is installing our new dining room/entry floor as I type, children are outside playing since it isn't freezing cold, the sick boy is feeling better, and I'm finishing up some orders (thank you thank you thank you!!!). Then I remembered that I had wanted to do a tutorial on French seams, but I just kept forgetting. Until now. This may be your lucky day!  ;o)

When I was younger I first read about French seams...and was completely intimidated! There was so much measuring and trimming and ironing and snipping and more ironing-- I think I gave up before I ever got started! Then serging became all the rage to make seams look more professional, but truth be told, I'm not the biggest fan. I see the appeal, but I prefer less "factory" type methods of sewing for most projects.

But the raw-edged seams on my handmade items looked a little too homemade, if you know what I mean. So I took another look at sewing French seams, and this time, discovered a simpler, faster way.



It is easy, I promise! The only thing that you really have to consider are the variations in seam allowances, and how they may alter the sizing of whatever you're making. Honestly, I have never had an issue with this. Some patterns call for 1/4 inch seam allowance, while others call for 5/8 inch. If working with 1/4 inch allowances, do all the steps to keep those seams narrow and things should work out just fine. Okay, let's get started!

With WRONG sides together, stitch 1/4 inch (or 1/8 inch by adjusting your needle position to the right) from the edge--

At this point, you can trim the raw edges with a quick cut if you want to sew a narrower seam. You'll be enclosing the seam with the next stitch line, so if that seam is too wide, it will show...which you do not want.

After you've done this a few times, you will get a feel for how narrow things should be, and it gets even easier!

Open out the fabric with the new seam on top and iron it to one side, gently pulling one side taut--

The wrong side will look like this--
(If you want to, go ahead and iron this flat too, but it isn't necessary.)

Next, fold along the seam, RIGHT sides together, making sure the stitch line is nice and straight.
Press--

Now, with the pressed fabric folded {still RIGHT sides together} stitch 1/4 inch, give or take, along the edge. I wanted a nice, wide seam, so mine is slightly larger than 1/4 inch--

Position the seam to the desired side and press the RIGHT side.
On the outside things look just as they normally would, but now on the inside, you've got beautifully encased seams--

 Curves are no problem for sewing with French seams! This is a seam with a sleeve and underarm--

Sorry for the terrible lighting (it was dark & gloomy yesterday!), but here is a pic of the finished product- so pretty!

When working with silky or slippery fabrics, and fabrics that fray easily, French seams can be a lifesaver! There are, however, some occasions when sewing with French seams doesn't work well at all. Bulkier, heavier fabrics are a nightmare because the seams get super thick and difficult to work with- I would zig-zag the edges, or yes, even use the serger!

I hope this tutorial was helpful for you to go ahead and try something new! Feel free to email me at 3sonsplus1@gmail dot com with any questions. Have a great weekend!

ps- I just noticed that my pink fabrics are different in the photos, so I hope that isn't confusing-- I had some nightgown orders to finish up, so the tutorial got a little spiced and diced, ha! But I guess that's a really good problem to have!  =)

Thursday, May 7, 2015

Sweetness for Baby Girl

I've shared on other media how this has been a difficult week for my family. I've appreciated the prayers, thoughts, and kind of comments from everyone. (I shared on my family blog here as well as on the Rose & Ruffle facebook page...yes, there is a facebook page!

I'm extremely appreciative of the orders coming in recently. It feels so good to contribute to our adoption fund in this way, so as always, thank you! Now that summer is quickly approaching, I will be making and listing items ahead of time in various sizes, and not taking as many custom orders. Here is one of the first things for Summer 2015:

Size 1-3 Months
**please note that Picasa and/or Blogger are making these images appear darker and washed out- grrr; this is a true crisp but soft white with medium pink rosebuds**

I love how this set turned out! So sweet and feminine!

The dress is on the longer side, measuring approximately 15 inches from shoulder to hem, and the style is roomy and comfortable, so Baby will be able to wear it for a longer time.


The bloomers are my favorite!
 





While I do normally work only with cotton, occasionally a fabric strikes my fancy and it just so happens to be a cotton blend, like this one. It's cool and smooth for delicate baby skin, and the seersucker resists wrinkles and holds its shape nicely.

This would be adorable for a portrait session, too! Sweet details but not too much so as to distract from Baby.


Lastly, I'm wondering if people are interested in more things for little boys. Here are some cute boxer shorts I sold last year. I'm thinking of making some more in other fun prints, as well as some shortalls...any interest? Thanks!




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